Info on Gutter fixing and fitting gutter
Gutter fixing information – Use the following instructions to successfully install properly functioning guttering around your house.
Firstly it is important to fit the gutter up as high as you can on the fascia board and the roof edge should not protrude more than half the way across the width of the guttering. If it does you may want to refit your fascia board with either a thicker board, or use suitable timber behind the fascia board to bring the gutter further out.
Gutters can be fitted with or without a fall towards an outlet. They will function perfectly fine if they are fitted level. Under no circumstances should gutters be fitted with a fall away from an outlet.
The advantage of fitting gutters with a slight fall is that the flow capacity is improved, and the silting effect is reduced.
Before fitting anything make sure all seals/rubbers are in place and damage free. Also check all clips are present.
Start with an outlet. Stop end or Running outlet depending on your needs. This needs to be fixed up with 2no 25mm or bigger stainless steel screws. Ideally these need to be fitted vertically above the drainage system below, the downpipe will want to run straight down into the drain to maximise the speed of draining the roof.
Now go back to the opposite side of the building to the outlet and position your first fascia bracket. Use a string line between this bracket and the outlet to ensure they are the correct level/slope. Keep the line up to allow you to position the remaining brackets and joiners correctly.
Now fix the remaining brackets at no more than 1 metre intervals ( for roofs prone to high snow build up or rainfall this will need to be reduced to 800mm) by offering them up to the string line to ensure they are correctly lined up.
A fascia bracket should be fitted within 150mm of all stopends and angles.
The fitting of a union bracket/joiner is required at each join of two gutter sections. Unions should always be fixed to the fascia through the pre drilled fixing holes.
At the end of a run of gutter use an external stopend to complete. Where the run of gutter may finish with a corner or running outlet use an internal stopend to fit straight into the fixture.
Now the gutter can be fitted. Start at the outlet end. Always use the back to front method for clipping the gutter in. This means angle the gutter under the back retaining lip of the brackets then pull the front edge down to clip under the front lip/bracket clip.
Gutter should be inserted into the fittings up to the marks moulded onto them. Failure to do this could lead to leaks.
Now fit remaining gutter pieces, cutting down to the required length where needed with a fine tooth saw. All gutter should be cut square and rough edges should be smoothed out.
Start at the outlet of the gutter, which should be directly above a drain. A plumb line can be used to line this up better.
Normally a gutter will over hand the wall of a building. Where it does, a pair of offset bends will need to be used (also called Swan necks due to their shape) to bring the downpipe in close to the wall for fitting the clips. Depending on the size of the overhang (soffit) a piece of downpipe may need to be inserted between the offset bends to make up the difference.
Directly under the offset bends, a downpipe clip needs to be fitted to support it.
A length of downpipe can now be fitted into the bottom offset bend (or gutter outlet if no offset bends needed). This needs to be fixed to the wall at intervals of no more than 2 metres. In areas where the downpipe may be subject to impact, more clips may need to be used.
Two types of clips are available, ‘stand off’ and ‘flush’. The stand off clip brings the back of the downpipe away from the wall by approx 25mm. This is handy if you have an uneven wall, such as stone built. It is the most popular choice.
Depending on the height of your building or the lengths of downpipe you are using, you may need to join 2 lengths. This can be achieved by using a pipe socket/joiner. Insert the socket into the top piece of downpipe and fix to the wall with a pipe clip. The lower piece of downpipe can now be fitted.
Finally at the bottom of the run of downpipe you will need to do one of the following.
If the pipe is directly above a drain you can fit a shoe on the bottom of the pipe. This will direct the water to exit all at the same angle and direction, useful if you want to keep the water away from the bottom of the building.
A bung can be fitted to an existing 100mm circular waste pipe, allowing a square or round downpipe to go straight into the drain without the need for a shoe.
If you are using a square downpipe where there was originally a round downpipe which drainedinto a cemented in round drain hole, you can fit a square to round downpipe adaptor to allow you to use the existing set-up.
If you have a roof which is being drained onto a lower roof, you will want to use a shoe on the bottom of the downpipe to better direct the water away from the house and down the roof neatly.
With decades of knowledge and experience Kents Building Plastics are very well placed to not only supply the products, but also to offer guidance on all your gutter fixing needs. We are a friendly team and always welcome enquiries. Feel free to contact us today.
We hope you found our gutter fixing information of use. If you still have any gutter fixing questions please do feel free to contact us.
Fascia fixing instructions can be found here|KentsBuilding.